In addition to these common inlay methods, there is a kind of inlay process. Not only can the beauty of nature be to the extreme. At the same time is also known as the highest realm of modern jewelry inlay, it is hidden inlay.
What do you mean by hidden inlay?
Concealed inlay, also known as infinity inlay, used to be the Van Cleef & Arpels family’s unique secret skills.
If you look closely, you will notice. On the front of the jewelry, there is absolutely no trace of any metal used to set the stone.
Such as a metal claw, a bracket or a setting. The documented work is all natural, with no trace of retouching. And the secret to all this is actually on the back of the jewelry.
Unlike the flawless front, the back of a piece of jewelry with a hidden setting is like an intricate labyrinth.
The jeweler creates small squares of gold or platinum “wires” that serve as the base of the stone. Then, grooves are cut into the sides of each stone so that it fits into the square.
The history of the invisible setting:
The history of the secret setting can be traced back to the 1930s.
At that time, the jeweler Mr. Langlois invented the invisible setting together with Van Cleef & Arpels. This unique setting is in keeping with Van Cleef & Arpels’ quest for natural beauty.
Van Cleef & Arpels began to use this technique in its jewelry designs in order to maximize the beauty of nature. Patented in 1934, it has since become an exclusive Van Cleef & Arpels inlay.
Initially, Van Cleef & Arpels used this technique only for flat settings. The craftsmen often cut the stones into squares and arranged them neatly.
For example, the “Minaudière” treasure chest below is the first piece Van Cleef & Arpels created using the invisible setting.
As the technique continued to improve, by 1935 it could also be found in curved jewelry pieces.
Later, Van Cleef & Arpels upgraded this unique setting technique with the help of its master craftsmen.
The Vitrail Mystery Set, a stained-glass invisible setting, makes it impossible to see the traces of the setting on either the front or the back of a piece of jewelry.
The Navette Mystery Set marquise setting, on the other hand, makes jewelry pieces even more three-dimensional and intimate.
In 1990, the Navette Mystery Set began to be used in jewelry with diamonds as the main stone.
Due to diamonds’ extreme hardness, it is not easy to create even a simple style.
The Boule ring below is one of the masterpieces of diamond stealth setting.
The stealth setting process:
Although Van Cleef & Arpels’ patents have long expired, it is still rare to find jewelry with a secret setting.
The reasons for this are, on the one hand, the number, size and clarity of the stones, and, on the other, the skill of the setter.
Simply put, the hidden setting process can be divided into four parts: stone setting, pitting, mounting and inlaying.
Matching stones: the essence of the craft
The requirements for matching stones are very strict.
In addition to the hardness and toughness of the stones, the color, size, aspect ratio and number of stones are also extremely precise.
As the stones are seamlessly joined, the color and clarity of one stone will not match the others. This will affect the overall appearance of the piece.
Pitting: the essence of craftsmanship
After the matching stones have been selected, the stones need to be grooved in a process known as pitting.
This process may seem very simple, but in practice it is quite complex.
It requires precise calculations by experienced and skilled craftsmen.
Special tools are used to precisely cut each stone.
The slightest mistake will cause the stone to tilt or fall out, directly affecting the beauty of the piece and the quality of the setting.
The setting: the most important thing
The setting is the secret of a hidden setting.
In order to leave no trace of the setting on the front of the jewelry, the artisan creates small squares of gold or platinum “wires” that serve as the base of the stone.
The squares must be made with absolute precision to ensure a stable grip on the stone. This is a process that puts the jeweler’s skills to the test.
Setting: the splendor
The final step is to set the pitted stone into the stone’s setting.
In order to secure the stone in its setting, it is sometimes necessary to tap it with a fine needle, a small hammer or other tool. This is until it no longer loosens.
Setting specially cut stones one by one is easier said than done.
It requires a high level of skill on the part of the jeweler. It also requires patience and care, as the slightest mistake can cause the stone to crack and the work to be lost.
The use of the hidden setting: The use of the hidden setting
Concealed settings can be used like coloring, giving the piece large, uninterrupted swathes of color that sparkle 360 degrees in the light.
In addition to being used in jewelry, it is also commonly used in luxury watches.
Cryptic settings are also a good idea for those who love large carat stones, but are shy.
Although, compared to a really big diamond, the fire color of the diamond jewelry will be a little more broken, but it is not so obvious from a social distance.
Gemstones aren’t enough for craftsmanship, and who wouldn’t feel good about that compared to the price of just a fraction of a large stone?
